Monday, September 27, 2010

Where the Mountains Meet the Sea

With the run of beautiful weather we’ve been having lately I could hardly bear sitting inside all weekend, so I decided to hop on the train and head 180 km north north-east to Kaikoura, a small touristy town of somewhere around 3,000. Kaikoura is a very unique locale. As you’ll see shortly, it abuts the pacific ocean and it backs up against 2,000 m mountains. No foothills or anything – just ocean, Kaikoura, and the Southern Alps.

This rather odd arrangement results from the fact that the town lies just 800 meters or so from a branch of the Hikurangi Trench – the trench formed by the subduction of the Pacific Plate beneath the Australian Plate. As a result the area is subject to constant uplift on shore (the mountains are rising at about 10 mm per year, though erosion practically nullifies that figure). Why anyone would want to live there is beyond me.

As you might imagine this gives the area particularly interesting geology. Most of the peninsula is made up of layers of uplifted (formerly) marine limestone and siltstone dating from the Late Cretaceous up to relatively recent times. The layer most recently shoved above sea level is a layer of limestone, as you’ll see from the photographs.

This location has other implications as well. Due to the subduction activity of the plates and the rather quick dropoff of the continental shelf, there’s a constant upwelling of nutrients in the water, which brings an incredible variety of marine life, most notably humpback and sperm whales, to the shores of Kaikoura. They tend to hang around close enough to shore that you can see them breach without binoculars. I only saw a couple of tails, but the town’s biggest industry is whale watching (by boat, helicopter, or plane) and many of the companies all but guarantee sightings pretty much year-round.

I didn’t do a whale watch because I didn’t have time. I did, however, walk all around the town, up to the seal colony, and around the peninsula (which is a reserve). It was quite a bit of walking (about 4.5-5 hours total) but it was peaceful, warm, and the scenery was spectacular!

Here are the pictures!


Rolling HillsTranzCoastalRiver ValleyTrains Scare SheepThe PacificTunnelKiwi RailPoint KeanLimestoneUpliftMore LimestoneCrystal Clear WaterSeal - I almost stepped on this oneSunbathingLighthouseNew Zealand PastoralLimestone BeachThe Peninsula TrackPa Remains - The stepped hillside is a remnant of Maori fortificationsWhere the Mountains Meet the SeaFreight - something about this picture just look so right...

Tuesday, September 14, 2010

Getting Away

The aftershocks haven’t stopped after a week and the University is still closed. A four-week spring break is a little bit more than I bargained for. I must admit I’m kind of tired and unmotivated, so there won’t be many words to this one.

Monday following the earthquake my friend, Max, and I decided to fill up the extra free time with a three-day, 200 km bike trip down the west coast. Serving a triple purpose as exercise, sight-seeing, and escaping the aftershocks for a little while, the idea was a good one. We rented equipment for a reasonable price from a place in Christchurch and headed through Arthur’s Pass to Greymouth on Tuesday.

Greymouth, which is a lovely town of about 10,000, was our starting point. The first day the weather was almost perfect. We rode 42 km to a little tourist town called Hokitika, which grew up around the processing of jade (greenstone). Though we originally intended to stay there for the night we decided we had more energy and continued another 27 km to Ross, a very small town with its history rooted in the search for gold. The next day I rode back to Greymouth while Max continued on down the coast. The weather was almost better than the first day, but there was more wind, which was slightly frustrating.

I met up with Max again in glacier country, where I payed quick visit to the Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers. We tried to catch views of Mt. Cook (New Zealand’s tallest at 3,754 m) but it was very much obstructed by the clouds and rain that moved in on day three.

That’s all I’ve got! This week I decided to take it easy after basically touring all over the South Island for a week. On Thursday I’m attending a concert by the New Zealand Symphony Orchestra featuring Colin Currie on Percussion for MacMillan’s Veni, Veni, Emmanuel. The concert also includes Britten, Ravel, and Strauss – shouldn’t be a bad evening!

That’s pretty much it! Cue the pictures!


Arthur's Pass Before Sunset - not that you would've been able to see sunset...View of the Mountains from the Beach in HokitikaLake MahinapuaCommon SceneryA White HeronA Retired Railroad BridgeA Recreational Lake in Ross - a filled-in gold mineLake IantheThe View up the RoadFranz Josef Glacier - as recently as 1930 this lake bed was full of iceMeltwater StreamsKeaFranz Josef - bit of a moraine building up there!Fox Glacier - yes, the water is really that colourGlacier-Carved Cliffs - find the people and use them as your scale (those are big cliffs)!Looking Up at FoxGlacial StratificationGlacial Lake and Revegetation

Tuesday, September 7, 2010

When Things Go Bump in the Night…

Or in the very early morning, as was the case at 4:30 am Saturday when I awoke to a rather horrendous shaking. At first instance I thought I was waking up from a bad dream, tossing and turning. I shortly came to the realization, however, that it was not I who was shaking, but my bed. I shrewdly concluded that since my bed was shaking, my room must shaking, so the building must be shaking.

Earthquake.

This was my thought process in the 2-3 seconds it took my brain to go from “sleep” to “panic.” My next realization was that my bedroom is suspended two storeys above a solid concrete walkway. I determined that it would be in my best interest to leave the room and head for a location nearer to the support structure of the building – four thick, vertical concrete slabs near the centre. I wobbled unsteadily down the hallway, sat on the couch, and waited for the quaking to subside. I sat there listening as my rock and shell collection crashed to the floor, as stacks of coins for laundry tumbled onto my desk, as books fell off my shelves. I had left the door to my bedroom open and in the darkness (the power had gone out almost instantly after I woke up) I could hear it swinging back and forth as the rumbling continued.

Once the shaking subsided to walk-able levels I quickly dressed and, together with my flatmates, evacuated the flat and headed down to the lawn, where most of those students living in the Ilam apartments who were not home for break were now gathered. We were told that initial estimates of the magnitude of the quake placed it at 7.4. The lawn quickly became chaotic, with students calling and texting parents and friends and exclaiming to each other their disbelief at having come out of the ordeal unscathed. While the RAs began to search the buildings for stragglers our attention was quickly called back and we were instructed to move out of the crystal-clear night and into the one-storey common room to await the process of accounting for everyone. At about 7:00 am we were cleared to return to our flats. Though we did not have power I was in touch with a friend who told me that damage had been extensive but that the immediate effect on people was minimal, so my flatmate and I headed toward the bus stop to try to catch a ride into town. The buses, however, were not running, so we walked. Riccarton still had power and many of the shops were opening up. The damage was mostly done to unstable fences – there was only one fallen chimney. Walking through Hagley Park and nearing the city, however, we noticed cracks in pathways and flooding. As we walked by the Canterbury Museum and the old UC campus we noticed that decorative stonework had fallen from the tips of spires and smashed upon the pavement.

As we walked about the city the police were putting up tape, fire trucks were rushing every which way, big trucks carrying multiple bulldozers were rumbling down alleyways, and news and medical helicopters were criss-crossing overhead. Buildings were cracking and crumbling even as we walked – aftershocks had begun and already-weakened walls were simply buckling with increased agitation. I took the following pictures:


Damage in Riccarton - pretty minimalDamage to the Old CampusFallen Shop AwningFacade Damage and CleanupIntersection - this was a pretty common scene that morningFacade DamageWestpac Building - the columns supporting the structure were cracking as this photo was takenBroken WindowsChurchFacade DamageStreet ViewCrushed CarFacade DamageCampus ClosedThe Avon River - it was, though it felt like it shouldn't have been, a beautiful day

Some time in the afternoon the magnitude was revised to 7.1. The epicenter was identified as a rural area close to Darfield, about 30 km west of Christchurch. The quake occured approximately 16 km beneath the surface – quite shallow and, as a result, damaging. As I’m sitting here writing this (Sunday afternoon), the ground has not stopped trembling since the earthquake (for about 32 hours). It’s pretty much a constant swaying punctuated occasionally by an aftershock anywhere between 3.0 and 6.0. Thankfully the frequency of these aftershocks has significantly decreased since yesterday morning, but I have a feeling they’ll continue on for at least another day.

It is truly miraculous that nobody was killed. Only two people were seriously injured and one of them has already been released. Damage was extensive but not nearly as bad as it could have been. The city’s namesake, Christchurch Cathedral, was pronounced unharmed after examination by structural engineers.

The good that came out of this? Due to damages that the Vice Chancellor estimates will cost millions (not good), the University is closed for another week (good) – another week of break. I’m off to plan my activities!

I’ve been in contact with lots of you – thank you all for your concern and good wishes.