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At 4:00 am this morning, we touched down on the ice runway at Pegasus airfield off of McMurdo Station in Antarctica. We'd been dealing with delays because the runway, which sits on top of sea ice, was becoming unstable during daytime hours due to unseasonably warm temperatures. However, last night at 11:00 pm, after three delays spanning 36 hours, we got the go-ahead. I tried to sleep on the flight, but after about an hour, it was daylight again and I couldn't manage it. At the writing of this post, I've been awake for 32 hours, so bear with me if this gets a bit dicey. I'll try to keep it short.

Because of the runway situation, we took a commercial Airbus down rather than the customary, heavier military C-17 or LC-130. I was not altogether unhappy with this situation, because we got to sit in seats rather than on the floor of a cargo hold, but I still feel that I missed out on part of the experience. I'll probably get my chance when I return to New Zealand, though.

We were met by Ivan, the terra bus, which took us down the 15 mile snow road from the ice runway to McMurdo. This took approximately an hour and afforded the bleary-eyed passengers another opportunity for a brief snooze.

We got to McMurdo, where we were able to eat breakfast in the galley before our introductory briefing and environmental safety lectures. Following this, we got our dorm assignments and lab/office keys. I received a short tour of some of the more important areas of the station from another scientist on our project. 

We were supposed to get in yesterday, and we would have had another day to just hang around and explore. However, we got in late, and so the next couple days will be packed. Tomorrow morning, those of us new to the ice will be subjected to 'Happy Camper', a survival/safety course in which we pitch our tents or build snow shelters out on the sea ice (approximately 15 miles from the station) and stay over night without our instructors. This carries on well in to Saturday, and me and my research companions are scheduled to leave Sunday to go WAIS (West Antarctic Ice Sheet) Divide deep field camp for most of the rest of the season. Since all cargo has to be put into line to get onto the plane out to the deep field at least a day in advance, this meant that we had to compile and load our sleeping kits (tents, blankets, thermos, sleeping bags/pads) today, which took a significant portion of the day, given that few of us knew what we were doing.

After that was all done, I had a chance to go and explore the base a little bit. The buildings are all numbered for ease of reference, and there's not much in the way of architectural creativity. But they do pretty well, given the circumstances of their construction (or shipment, in some cases). The galley is the largest structure, and also contains the store, gear issue, administrative offices, laundry facilities, and a gym. There is a post office, two cargo offices, a chapel, the main laboratory/science office space (Crary), 'the Chalet' (administration), and, of course, dorms, power generators, fuel storage, weather stations, and equipment garages. All said and done, the base is big enough to support its summer population of over 800 scientists and administrative and support staff. And, as it's located on the Hutt Point Peninsula with towering (and volcanically active) Mount Erebus to the north and the expansive Ross Sea to the south, the views are certainly not lacking.

All the people I've met so far have been very helpful and friendly. I think you have to be of a certain disposition in order to enjoy being stuck in the same place with a small number of people for months at a time, and I'm grateful for it. Despite the isolation, people seem to find creative ways to pass the time, whether it's the soccer games on Wednesday nights, the parties (I got invited to an end-of-the-world 'pool party' this weekend, where "ECW [extreme cold weather gear] may be necessary but bathing suits are encouraged"), interfaith discussions at the chapel, digging elaborate shelters and sculptures in the snow, midnight hikes in broad daylight, or simply jogging around base. I, personally, hope to hike up to the summit of a nearby volcanic cone after dinner before turning in to what I anticipate will be the best night's rest I've had in quite some time. 

Though the base is never quiet, there is a tranquility and a marvelous sense of privilege inherent in its presence. The beauty surrounding it is somehow contextual and transcendental all at once. I can't wait to explore it more, and I hope that you, understanding fully that my pictures - and especially my words - will not do justice to all, or perhaps any, of what I see, will follow along!